Celebrating Easter and my recovery by sailing south!

As all good things must come to an end, so it is with the bad… Thanks to the wonders of modern medicine I’m fit to take the helm once more (pray more than once), and cast off for another adventure.

Nothing lifts my spirits more than having a fully provisioned boat and a favourable wind for my next destination, which is of course, Saint Laurent du Maroni.

After what I’ve experienced weather-wise in the last few weeks, a tranquil river anchorage is looking mighty attractive.

I’ll endeavour to keep a day by day journal this time so those who choose to take the same route know what to expect…

Time is short…

The real reason we travel to the Caribbean

The real reason we travel to the Caribbean?

Not that I dare assume the slightest responsibility for this, but readers may be under the false impression that sailing a yacht through the Caribbean island chain, is just an elaborate way of going on an extended pub crawl, or an excuse for gate crashing parties in exotic locations… Heaven knows where they came up with such a notion…

It’s abundantly clear (my standard line for the folks back home) that the real reason I travel here is because:

  • I’m bettering myself through cultural immersion and by savoring the phenomenal natural diversity of the islands (almost wrote islanders), and that it’s an enlightening and deeply spiritual experience.

For some reason (I can’t imagine why…), few seem to credit these claims…

Free tastings at the Saint James distillery in Martinique

Free tastings at the Saint James distillery in Martinique

Why just the other day I was doing exhaustive research into the plight of spirits at the Saint James distillery.

How much more spiritual can you get?

You see… Being a man of quasi-constant leisure (I’ve been downgraded), isn’t just about admiring the pretty girls after all….

One can but admire such fine plumage!

One can but admire such fine plumage!

Though I’m occasionally willing to apportion a smallish fraction (say 80%) of my attention to this field in appreciation of the finer arts…

But sadly, I will have to postpone further studies. Time is running short, and I must see to the noble cause of furthering the yachting infrastructure in French Guiana (I’ll take a modest bow to your polite applause here)…

Can't go anywhere without stocking up on white goods!

Can’t go anywhere without stocking up on white goods!

So while my preparations, including provisioning are fortunately in no way as burdensome as some, it will not be long before I must weigh anchor once more and return Eileen of Avoca to the Amazon basin.

Now if only the weather would improve…

The bit I don’t understand…

Martinique, where men are men... or...

Martinique, where men are men?

For those of you who wonder why there are so many photos of women on my blog, I present Exhibit A (photo above)… Need you any additional explanation as to why I don’t often photograph the men?

A mini Miss beauty pageant?

A mini Miss beauty pageant winner blows the crowd a kiss…

The very young,

95 years young.

95 years young.

and the very old on the other hand, make excellent photo models. Both were found celebrating on the streets of Fort de France in the true spirit of carnival. A rarity however, as the predominant group (at least for this year), was the teenager. I have no idea where the mid twenties to mid thirties set were hiding… That remains a disappointing unsolved mystery!

Not that I have anything against teenagers out having a good time. It’s just that the generation gap occasionally feels like a chasm. For example:

It's not carnival.... It's Lolita ville here in Fort de France

Carnival teens.

Is it just me or do the girls look like they’re auditioning for the next production of Lolita?

Carnival mini thug

Give me your wallet or else…

And the boys…. What’s with the I want to look like a thug theme?

Hot pants with a use by date of this evening???

Hot pants with a use by date of this evening???

Frankly, I don’t get it…

Oh well, guess I’ll just get back to something I do understand…. Leopard hunting…

 

Bunnies, Mouseketeers and… and…

The bunnies are everywhere!

The bunnies are everywhere!

I’m back for another day of bunny watch… For some reason rabbit ears are all the rage at this years carnival.

Pa bunny and baby bunny out for a stroll.

Pa bunny and baby bunny out for a stroll.

But it does look better on some…. than on others….

The mouseketeers are alive and well.

The mouseketeers are alive and well.

If it’s not rabbit ears its mouse ears….

It will all be on facebook tomorrow.

It will all be on facebook tomorrow.

I photographed the lot..

Not that I wasn’t ready to participate in the festivities! I had quickly acquired my carnival essentials kit.

Carnival kit... Because sometimes less is more....

Carnival kit… Because sometimes less is more….

Energy drink, check…. Red nose, check…. odd voice whistle (makes you sound like you’ve been breathing helium), check….

Tailing carnival leopards... Dangerous work...

Tailing carnival leopards… Dangerous work…

I wasn’t just going to be a spectator at this party… Especially when I found myself on the tail of a young leopard or two…

So, did the great red nosed hunter catch his prey?

Now that I've caught myself a leopard, what next?

Now that I’ve caught myself a leopard, what next?

With the right camouflage it was even too easy….

 

 

 

 

A feast for the eyes!

I'm not sure that her smile can match mine!

I’m not sure that her smile can match mine!

Breaking the world kayak speed record, I paddled ashore to take a closer look at the festivities….

All the colours of the rainbow...

All the colours of the rainbow…

Rainbows to the right…

Suddenly I'm an enthusiastic lepidopterist.

Suddenly I’m an enthusiastic lepidopterist.

Butterflies to the left….

I'm tickled pink...

I’m tickled pink…

Feathers everywhere else…

Smile for the cameraman?

Smile for the cameraman?

All to the accompaniment of festive music…

I have no words.... I'll let the camera do the talking...

I have no words…. I’ll let the camera do the talking…

and wow… the dance…

That’s enough for today…. Understandably I’m suffering sensory overload and my camera battery needs a recharge…

 

A Caribbean Carnival

Time to party in Fort de France, Martinique

Time to party in Fort de France, Martinique

I made my dash for Martinique the moment forecasts promised winds of no more than 15kts… (because I’m the sailing equivalent of a wuss).

Ten miles from Fort de France I was busy cussing and vilifying all weathermen because, surprise surprise, I found myself confronting a consistent 40kt breeze in an increasingly agitated sea. At least I didn’t have to add to the buzz on the VHF radio, which had come to life with numerous warnings and distress calls…

No matter… I’ve arrived… wet and somewhat shaken, but as luck would have it, just in time for the big party!

Have I died and gone back to Brazil?

Have I died and gone back to Brazil?

For some reason I’m feeling a whole lot better…

 

 

 

 

A whale of a time in Bequia?

Back in Bequia

Back in Bequia

I’ve made a quick stop in Bequia to wait out some more nasty weather…  It’s this season’s recurrent theme…. Bad weather! No storms, just too much wind.

What’s too much wind? For me it’s forecasts of 30kts. Not that my yarmouth23 isn’t capable of handling the conditions, it’s just that I don’t enjoy it… Playing sailor in 30kts plus is fun when you do it for a few hours… Not when you have to do it for several days! Trust me on this, I’ve been there….

Playing loner at the whale boner....

Playing loner at the whale boner….

Unfortunately there always seems to be too much wind in the southern Caribbean. If only I were further north… I’ll just have console myself with yet another alcoholic refreshment…

Nice and calm in the bay at Bequia

Nice and calm in the bay at Bequia

I must admit that there are worse places in the world to be stranded a few days….

 

 

Pizza break….

Genuine Italian pizza at "La Cantina" in Tobago

Genuine Italian pizza at “La Cantina” in Tobago

Just taking a quick two day break in Tobago waiting for a decent weather window… Or it could be that I’m here because I couldn’t resist one last “wood-fired oven” pizza… or… or…  OK, I’ll be honest… (no raised eyebrows please)…

The real reason I’ve stopped is that there are some very minor repairs to be made on Eileen…The loops in her lazy-jacks have come loose and they are inevitably getting tangled up in everything… So while the real reason is that I need to sew new lazy jack loops, understandably I’ll be maintaining the more macho sounding weather excuse for anybody that asks.

I also have to do some tiding up in the boat… I spent an irritating day and a night having all manner of accoutrements make poltergeist impersonations in the boisterous seas. Now I know what it must feel like to be locked in a tumble drier… (so sorry Felix, I was only six… just kidding Mr animal welfare representative)…

If I wasn’t in such a rush to get out of Chaguaramas, I might have made Eileen ship shape. No matter, I like stopping in Tobago. It’s more fun than Grenada and gives me a better angle for sailing further north.

But there are times….

 

Eileen of Avoca sails back to the Caribbean

I live to work another day!

I live to work another day!

While on route to Trinidad, I spent the Maya “end of days” and Christmas alone at sea.

I survived both…

I should have paid more attention to arts and craft lessons...

I should have paid more attention to arts and craft lessons…

However, neither event spared me the from the labor of an annual boat haul with its myriad of maintenance torments…

Check the graffiti for EIleen of Avoca...

Check the graffiti for EIleen of Avoca…

But this time I made a point of hiring some liberty (note the car in the photo above) for that essential evening lime in downtown Port of Spain.

steel band

Yet another steel band struts its stuff

Or for catching up with the 2013 Panorama steel band competition in Arima.

Albatros Feliz

Albatros Feliz

And while I was busy doing all this…. I missed out on the largest yacht to visit Saint Laurent du Maroni yet. I did however catch up with the 25m Albatros Feliz for a photo opportunity in Chaguaramas Trinidad.

On Thursday the 17th of January, EIleen of Avoca returns to the water and her Caribbean adventures continue as I point her toward the Dominican Republic.

 

 

 

More ugly weather!

Another fine day in the Caribbean…

It was supposed to be a quick 10 day sail back to French Guiana but two weeks later I found myself still busy battling isolated thunderstorms and gradually being pushed toward southern Venezuela. Not my premiere choice of destinations given the number of sailors I’ve come across that have given it the thumbs down with respect to safety.

Feeling wet wet wet….

Just so that you know…. sometimes sailing isn’t that much fun!

Bouncing about like a cork for two weeks is one of those times…

Although squalls in the Caribbean had been forecast (they’re always forecast), who’d have imagined that isolated thunderstorms was a synonym for “focused entirely on Eileen of Avoca” thunderstorms?

With a steady Force 6 on the nose and a contrary current of 1 to 1.5kts I should have stayed put. Of course what I should have done… and what I did do…, are two paths that rarely bisect. In this case, I’d fallen victim to the one thing a sailor should never do…

I told someone I’d be in a certain place at a certain time. “Certain” shouldn’t be in a sailors vocabulary. In a moment of sheer stupidity (happens rather frequently I’m told), I agreed to attend a birthday party upon my return to French Guiana.

Of course I didn’t make it….

Progress at 1 knot was steady if frustratingly slow, but despite this I might have arrived with time to spare, if of course I hadn’t been swamped by a rogue wave!

Pause here for dramatic effect…

Obviously I didn’t drown because I’m still writing in the first person…

Was it a close call? No, but it was the first time I’d ever been thoroughly pooped!

How many adults dare say that nowadays?

I was dozing in my bunk (my favourite spot), when without warning Eileen was knocked sideways in a rush of noisy whitewater which, despite having one washboard in place and the hatch firmly closed, instantly drenched everything in the cabin. I can testify that having buckets of water thrown over me is an effective if unpleasant catalyst for gaining my full attention, an attention that was now directed at the cascade of water flowing down the companionway stairs. It’s source…? A new swimming pool in my pushpit. (—Deleted expletive!—)

One of these could save your life!

Outside it was immediately clear that everything that wasn’t tied down was now gone. Good thing I wasn’t outside huh? Cushions, ropes, jerry cans with my precious extra fuel, all washed overboard. Feeling strangely disconnected from reality amid apparent chaos, at least panic was the last thing on my mind. Stupefied, just about everything was far from my thoughts. It took the absurdity of a waterproof container (a practical Christmas gift) floating by, to break my stupor and set me in motion. Grabbing the improvised bucket, I did what I assure you comes naturally to all sailors in similar circumstances…

I bailed like a madman.

Why did I have to bail? Were the cockpit drains blocked? Much later I discovered that I’d only opened one of the two seacocks draining the pushpit. Luckily I’ve had a unique modification made to Eileen as a contingency against being flooded.

So glad I had this small modification made.

Check out the raised lip of my exterior lockers! The extra waterproofing kept most of the water out and the interior bilge pump installed in the heads meant I could safely deal with any seepage from the safety of “the can”.

An extra pump in the heads came in handy too!

Ten brownie points for being prepared!

Now what?

Not enough fuel to get to Saint Laurent but if I can push on a while longer I’ll just reach Guyana. Good thing I’ve got Chris Doyle’s guide aboard.

Looks like I’ll be making an unscheduled visit!