Let the good times roll…

It's Patrice...

It’s Patrice… who’s Patrice?

Much as I love the place, there is only so much Saint Laurent I can take before an inevitable relapse of PBBS has me itching to set sail once more.

The Trinidad remedy...

The Trinidad remedy…

Those who have followed this blog know that Post Brazilian Bikini Syndrome is a serious matter.

A pose or a wine?

A pose or a wine?

Luckily, numerous remedies are readily available and I’ve elected to try the ever popular dose of Carnival in Trinidad as treatment.

Would you like to join in?

Would you like to join in?

Not only does it relieve the symptoms of PBBS, it replaces the cravings altogether…

Birds of a feather...

Birds of a feather…

But if you read the small print, some side-effects such as a mysterious desire to carry out further ornithological studies can occur. 🙂

Ouch!

Ouch!

Leaving the marina office in the capable hands of the lovely Marion (obviously the one on the left)…

Marion and Tonichi stayed in Saint Laurent

Marion and Tonichi stayed in Saint Laurent

I sailed for 5 days to catch some carnival highlights…

It was bumper to bumper..

It was bumper to bumper..

and the bus…

The sailors bus reaches carnival...

The sailors bus reaches carnival…

Mind you I could have done without some of the bling on display.

It's the M.I.B. Men in Bling

It’s the M.I.B. Men in Bling

Here are some more photos of my recent study…

We cater for all sizes...

Carnival caters for all sizes…

After a few camera adjustments…

Just making a few minor adjustments.

Just helping with the adjustments.

It just got better…

Where was I?

Where was I?

and better…

I think the light is just about right now...

I think the light is just about right now…

and better..

Smile!

Smile!

What more can I say.

Hello hello...

Hello hello…

No more PBBS…

I'm cured...

I’m cured…

But wait, just to be sure…

An angel?

An angel?

and extra sure…

Sweet!

Yes… I’m sure now…

No more PBBS…

Definitely not the end...

Definitely not the end…

But wait… that’s not the end of this story…

See... no feathers!

See… no feathers!

It’s not only about the feathers!!

I do like the feathers!!

I do like the feathers!!

or is it…

Featherless in fine too!

Featherless in fine too!

I am of two minds on the subject…

What do you think?

What do you think?

Perhaps I should ask the audience…

How would you rate it?

How would you rate it?

Unfortunately they appear to be too busy to give an opinion…

So I’ll ponder the question as I sail on to Tobago…

Let the good times roll….

Waiting waiting and more waiting….

Sailing East to Tobago doesn't look good...

Sailing East to Tobago doesn’t look good…

I’m loafing about Chaguaramas waiting on the weather, which is about as dreadful as I feel (or look, according to some).

Despite the weather, it seems I’m the only sailor not making the most of my visit to Trinidad. How? By indulging in boat maintenance of course!

But why should I? Knowing full well how delighted I am at the prospect of productive labour, I’ve opted to postpone that necessary evil.

Besides, Eileen is in fine shape for sailing, though I’ll admit that she could use some cosmetic work to look her best. Sorry Eileen, it will have to wait…. for now.

You see, I’m on a mission! (Queue Mission Impossible music here…)

It’s all about spending the new year in Colombia… or was it about Aguila beer, I never seem to remember, but what ever the reason, it’s obvious I need to get moving!

 

Why the rush?

Much as I am enamoured by the regular operatic overtures of the Chaguaramas 8am radio net on VHF 68, the 6am group hikes of ornithological discovery into wilderness areas, and the 9am sharp joint bargain shopping expeditions to PriceSmart. My interests lie elsewhere, (lie being the operative word here), slumber being my preferred state of consciousness at such uncivilized hours.

Not that that saves me from the ubiquitous evening pot lucks, where newcomers are always welcome and apparently delight in feeding the likes of the half starved economy sailor, or the culinary challenged who have arrived with their contribution of popcorn…. once…

Never fear, I’ve found ways to avoid that dubious pleasure too!

 

If I appear exasperated with the customary anchorage rituals, it’s only because biding my time waiting on the weather is my second most hated thing about sailing .

The first is of course undertaking boat maintenance!

The 2013 Nereid’s Rally

Here be dragons!

Here be dragons!

OK, it’s official.

The web site is up and yachtsmen can now register for this years Nereid’s Rally, sailing from both Trinidad and Tobago on to Guyana and French Guiana.

Why is it called the Nereid Rally?

Because what better way to dispel the myths of sailing south from the Caribbean than to host a mythical themed event?

And Dave’s Rally was given the thumbs down… 😉

 

Eileen of Avoca sails back to the Caribbean

I live to work another day!

I live to work another day!

While on route to Trinidad, I spent the Maya “end of days” and Christmas alone at sea.

I survived both…

I should have paid more attention to arts and craft lessons...

I should have paid more attention to arts and craft lessons…

However, neither event spared me the from the labor of an annual boat haul with its myriad of maintenance torments…

Check the graffiti for EIleen of Avoca...

Check the graffiti for EIleen of Avoca…

But this time I made a point of hiring some liberty (note the car in the photo above) for that essential evening lime in downtown Port of Spain.

steel band

Yet another steel band struts its stuff

Or for catching up with the 2013 Panorama steel band competition in Arima.

Albatros Feliz

Albatros Feliz

And while I was busy doing all this…. I missed out on the largest yacht to visit Saint Laurent du Maroni yet. I did however catch up with the 25m Albatros Feliz for a photo opportunity in Chaguaramas Trinidad.

On Thursday the 17th of January, EIleen of Avoca returns to the water and her Caribbean adventures continue as I point her toward the Dominican Republic.

 

 

 

I’ve been in prison!

My cell block comes with a view.

Here I am doing time with hard labor in Chaguaramas prison… Well it may not look like prison, but it certainly feels like it!

It’s  hot here… much too hot. I’ve never been anywhere where I’ve suffered the heat as much as in the yards of Chaguaramas, and that includes the deserts of Egypt and Australia.

Not the slightest hint of a breeze. The sultry air saps your strength so that just walking between the yards and the chandlers is exhausting, and here I am hoping to carry out maintenance work on Eileen of Avoca. Absurd isn’t it?

Another dawn in sultry Trinidad

The smart people leave their boat with a to-do list for the yard and fly back home until the end of the hurricane season.

The not so smart (smart here being a synonym for wealthy), live aboard, hire an air conditioner, and deal with their own to-do list before the end of the hurricane season.

Then there’s me….

Eileen of Avoca entering the stocks in Trinidad

I don’t even have a fan on board, I think someone’s dog ate my to-do list, and I’ve apparently confused hurricane season with leopard hunting season… 🙂

Unfortunately Trinidad is under a declared state of emergency.

What does this mean for wandering yachtsmen? It means that after you’ve labored all day in the stifling heat you get to stay in your boat all night to enjoy more of that stifling heat, plus a swarm of mosquitoes and cockroaches as a bonus. Did I mention the stifling heat?

It’s lock down by 11pm or a 5000 US dollar fine and possible imprisonment if you’re caught wandering about at night.

To top it off, sailors are falling ill with dengue fever by the dozen, and there is at least one death a month through yard accidents…. Will I survive the hazards of boat maintenance in Trinidad?

Well, here is what I’ve been busy with during the day…

I've removed the propeller shaft and rudder

and…

Replaced the old stuffing box with this...

and…

Machined a new rudder pin and cutlass bearing...

and…

Bolted it all back together...

voila!

Now I just need to give Eileen a new coat of anti-fouling

And this is what I’ve been doing at night.

Nightlife in Trinidad

If anyone is reading this, please post bail and get me out of here….

Perhaps I should have done a little more research, because Chaguaramas is:

  • Uncomfortable…. NOTE: Understatement of the century…
  • Expensive! Watch out for poor quality work…
  • Bureaucratic to say the least. BTW, should customs officers really be hinting at extra storage fees, overtime, and travel expenses when clearing goods?
  • No longer tax free, unless you are willing to wait months for your ordered “yacht in transit” goods. Items stocked by chandlers incur VAT.

Moreover, Trinidad in general:

  • Is rather dangerous and currently under curfew to curb crime… (may it only briefly remain so). But if the street gangs don’t get you, perhaps the dengue will…
  • Is not in the least bit tourist friendly… I’ve been accosted in the street just for taking mundane holiday snapshots. The only other place this has ever happened to me was in Suriname.
  • Is almost clueless when it comes to “customer service”. Fortunately there are occasional exceptions (so perhaps there is still some hope)…
  • Doesn’t have any leopards… (so much for that glimmer of hope)…

Does Trinidad have at least one saving grace?

Might things be looking better after all?

Or perhaps two?

I appear to have my hands full....

Nah, they never did call me back after my phone was stolen… 🙁

Final verdict on Trinidad and Tobago?

Get me back in the water a.s.a.p.

I liked it so much that I’ve decided to give up on the Caribbean and sail back to South America for Christmas. I suspect that the lure of the leopards and continued PBBS are to blame.

Christmas in Mindelo

Something, somewhere went terribly wrong!

I am in Mindelo, Cape Verde, and as a fellow sailor passes by, I am reminded why I ‘m here. “Something, somewhere went terribly wrong” and I have made a brief escape from a life that gave me little joy. I’m all the richer and all the poorer for it, and if surmounting difficulties builds character, I’m absolutely full of it…

Hmmm… funny, my friends used to tell me that quite a bit… 😉

Exploiting the loophole!

Eileen of Avoca is at anchor because the daily marina fee is significantly beyond my means! Would you believe it’s 4 Euro a day just to leave your dingy tied to the pontoon? Fortunately I have friends with deeper pockets than mine (using the marina), and I am able to exploit a convenient loophole by tying my inflatable kayak to their boat.

More 3-day friends!

My companions here are the Bretons: Karen and Gwenael (on a Pogo 8.5) and Michel (on a Benetau First 28, see photograph). Michel is the Frenchman that delivered my tuna to the wrong boat, and I know Karen and Gwenael from when they rescued Eileen from collision with a boat dragging anchor in Sal.

You sure do meet people in bizarre circumstances here. Adding to the posse of francophone’s is Gerard, the owner of the above mentioned infamous yacht (an Ovni 385), that almost rammed Eileen.

Mindelo isn’t a tranquil sleepy town like Porto des Palmeria. It’s the “big city” and it can be dangerous after dark if you don’t keep your whits about you (or happen to be unlucky).

The anchorage and marina are reasonably safe, with paid personnel watching both. But about town things can get ugly, especially late at night. All is not well in Mindelo, as evidenced by quarreling youths openly dealing drugs in the towns main square, but locals tell me there have been encouraging signs of improvement of late.

Making that anode fit!!!

If you are looking to make repairs in Mindelo, don’t get your hopes up. The small chandler is poorly stocked and it’s four weeks wait for any delivery. I discovered that the zinc anode on my propeller was completely consumed and bought the only replacement available in Mindelo. Two sizes too large, but nothing that can’t be fixed with some help from Michel and a hacksaw!

My water in the propeller shaft problem and lubricating oil persists, and I now know Eileen will need to be lifted if it is to be corrected (thanks Gwenael).

I just hope it all holds together until I reach Trinidad. Lifting in Brazil is not an option and it will be several months before I reach the Caribbean. Fingers crossed that the bearings don’t seize!