Monsters on the Mana

The Mana River in French Guiana

The Mana River in French Guiana

It’s the rainy season, it’s hot, and I’m whiling away the hours of my free time fishing, swimming and playing tourist on the Mana River.

People often ask me if it is OK to swim in French Guiana. Nobody likes the look of the sediment filled water and it’s assumed the water quality is poor.

Well, it isn’t, and I have the study (Water Quality) to prove it… But….

…what of the creatures hidden in the murky depths?

I have it on good authority that despite what Hollywood would have us believe, the monster I caught on my fishing expedition the other day, isn’t the kind that eats swimmers…

I caught this one evening on the river Mana...

I caught this piranha one evening on the river Mana…

Yes, I share your doubts…

Bathing in the Mana has been taken off my list of things to do, more-so after locals explained to me that I should be more concerned about anacondas than piranhas!

The scale is in cm

The scale is in cm

Given what passes for a harmless common house fly in these parts, I’m in full agreement…In future,  I’ll stick to my occasional dips in the Maroni River where I’m more likely to come across a manatee than a monster.

Who owns the Maroni?

The islands on the Maroni River

The islands on the Maroni River

Marouini River – Thomas Donovan

A good question. One I finally found addressed in a fascinating paper by Thomas W. Donovan who states…

In perhaps the most desolate and under-populated area in the South America lies one of the most lingering boundary conflicts of modern nations.”

Could this pose difficulties for some poor sod planning a marina development in French Guiana? Especially when at first glance (i.e. a look at Google Maps), the entire river appears to belong to Suriname?

Well, Google’s Map sources apparently have a history of getting it all wrong. Sometimes with dire consequences…

For example, in November 2010:

All because of an error on a map!

All because of an error on a map!

Click here for the full article

Apparently Google has done it again with respect to the Maroni because in fact…

“ a treaty was finally concluded at Paris September 30, 1915 between the Dutch Minister De Steurs, and the French Foreign Minister Déclassé. The treaty was limited to the islands in the Maroni River between the northern point of Stoelman’s Island (Dutch) and the Southern extremity of Portal Island (French). It provided that

  1. a line in the middle of the river (at normal flow) should mark the boundary (thalweg);
  2. islands entirely or largely to the west of this line should be Dutch while those entirely or largely to the East of this line should be French;
  3. navigation on the river should be free to both nations;”

Which would make the current maps only about 100 years out of date….

Don’t sail south in April!

Why it's no fun sailing South in April...

Why it’s no fun sailing South in April…

I was told that April is the worse time of year to sail from Trinidad and Tobago to French Guiana. Now that I’ve done just that, I concur. Not that I had much choice. My visa for Trinidad and Tobago was about to expire and I was well overdue for another visit to Saint Laurent du Maroni to follow up on marina developments.

But, if you have the choice, take my advice and don’t do it.

Of course those who know me are well aware that I don’t readily take advice, least of all my own, so I can’t honestly expect many to follow this recommendation.

But I like being annoyingly pedantic, so I’ll repeat it anyway…

Don’t sail south in April!

April and May is when the mythical contrary current becomes not so mythical, and while I did everything I could to find an easy way around it (including the sailors equivalent of ritual voodoo), my improvised flirtations with the occult proved futile.

rig

Let’s play dodge the oil rig…..

Perhaps the only way to escape the northerly flow this time of year is to is to hug the coast near the 5m depth contour. Much as I hate giving up easting, I’ll give it a try sometime, despite my healthy aversion to single handed sailing near the coast. When it’s bed time, I’ll thwart running aground by dropping anchor. It’s what the local fishermen do, and I have it on good authority, (Bernhard from Guyana), that the strategy works.

In a horrendously agitated sea I motor-sailed against the prevailing current for 12 days…

Daily runs were often less than 40 nautical miles and as evidenced by the censored comments in my ship’s log, it was not much fun.

Fortunately my little 10HP engine is in good running order and I’d stocked up on plenty of diesel in Tobago, because otherwise I’d probably still be at sea.

Guess what this fisherman is about to do!

Guess what this fisherman is about to do!

A warning to yachts approaching both Suriname and French Guiana. Do not trust the placement of navigational buoys! They are often dragged away from their position by fishermen who use them as anchors for their vessels and nets.

The official positioning of buoys marking the thoroughfare on the Maroni River is given here. It will be a considerably less exciting trip across the bar if you take note of the coordinates.

On my way in to Saint Laurent, I did try and prevent one of the above mentioned culprits from inadvertently displacing one of the remaining buoys. With smiles all round they politely waited for me to sail by before ignoring my advice.

Remind you of anyone?

Celebrating Easter and my recovery by sailing south!

As all good things must come to an end, so it is with the bad… Thanks to the wonders of modern medicine I’m fit to take the helm once more (pray more than once), and cast off for another adventure.

Nothing lifts my spirits more than having a fully provisioned boat and a favourable wind for my next destination, which is of course, Saint Laurent du Maroni.

After what I’ve experienced weather-wise in the last few weeks, a tranquil river anchorage is looking mighty attractive.

I’ll endeavour to keep a day by day journal this time so those who choose to take the same route know what to expect…

There are times….

This season the weather has gone crazy!

This season the weather has gone crazy!

If there is anything that can really dishearten this solitary sailor, it’s got to be awful weather…., but if it’s not the weather, it’s some essential piece of equipment breaking just when it’s most needed…., or if it’s not equipment failures it’s an incapacitating injury…., and if it’s not that, it’s falling ill…..

Never caring to do things in just half measures, while anchored in Store Bay Tobago, I’ve fallen victim to all of the above!

Medication

I’ll take just about anything at this point….

Eileen of Avoca is bucking furiously in an absurdly agitated sea while her captain lies immobile suffering both sciatica and bronchitis. I’d struggle ashore to convalesce if only my inflatable kayak were not mysteriously punctured (the plastic one is currently ashore)… It’s been this way for several weeks and if there isn’t a sign of improvement soon, I’m considering shooting myself to put me out of everyone else’s misery.

Not really…. “Why should I play the Roman fool and die on my own sword… Whiles I see lives, the gashes do better upon them”. No?

OK, I’ll shoot someone else then… except, I have nothing at hand with which to shoot anybody… :(

It goes to show that sometimes the solitary life at sea isn’t much fun….

It’s now evidently clear to me that I should have added one more category to the list in my last post…

The Psychopathic Hypochondriac!

 

There will be no further posts ’till my sanity and / or health is back…

We’re a weird mob

Reflections from Fort de France

Reflections from Fort de France

Venturing north, where the concentration of yachtsmen appears inversely proportional to travel distances between ports, I’m clearly reminded that this getaway lifestyle attracts all sorts of individuals and groups!

Even the homeless can teach yachties a thing or two about fashion.

Even the homeless can teach yachties a thing or two about fashion.

Referring to us as “Yachties”, really doesn’t even scratch the surface of what is in fact a highly diverse group. The only common thread (myself excluded of course), is that yachtsmen have to be about the worlds least fashion conscious individuals.

There’s:

  • The Patriot (or Nouveau Conquistador when abroad), identified by the ensign that’s at least 30% the overall length of the yacht ( I exaggerate only slightly ). I watched one arrive the other day while visiting a fellow yachtsmen. As soon as the anchor was deployed, a crew member was dispatched to make a standing (literally), tour of the resident yachts. Presumably to better announce their arrival?
    “You know David, I haven’t even met that woman…. and already I can’t stand her….”
    And that, from a yachtsman carrying the same ensign!

Some think this is cool… The majority however think you’re a ……

  • The Naturist ( or nudist if you will ). A group phenomenon, where members delight in raw bohemian exhibitionism. Often surround unsuspecting yachts at anchor, and  proceed to give them a show that, I for one, would rather forget…
    If only the protagonists were a little younger… Say 40 years?
  • The Frugals ( penniless but persistent ), out to see the world, but unable to appreciate anything other than the view when they get there. They almost never leave their boat as doing so inevitably leads to an unbudgeted expense.
  • The Hustler (businessman or opportunist). See other yachtsmen or the places they visit as an untapped commercial market.
    Why do I lump them together?
    Because they both have that same unsavory polished zeal about them.
    I should know.. I’m building a marina after all ;) “Out damned spot! Out I say!!”
  • The Escapee ( Tax-man or ex-wife? ). Motto: They’ll never get me out here!!!
    I was once asked what I was running from, given that I’d chosen this unusual lifestyle… While I’ll admit that there are many yachtsmen who have indeed run away from something… Working for example… I’m not happy being tagged as an escapee… And that’s despite what I may have written in the past.
    Now it’s time to escape the self-imposed prisons of debt, monotony, and false ambition and weigh anchor.
    Perhaps that was just a phase I was going through, and now I’ve happily moved on to another category…. (or two)
  • The Seeker ( or quixotic individualist? ). I’m not talking about the I’m trying to “find my inner self” types… Those still insist on climbing mountains in Tibet or trekking through India. I’m talking about the ones who are really actively looking for their closest approximation of Shangri-La… I write “their” instead of “the”, because utopia is a matter of taste, and not even necessarily a place.
And people wonder at my fascination with leopard print....

And people wonder about my fascination with leopard prints….

  • The Playboy ( It’s not what you think…) It’s just that cruising for some yachties is a kind of game… On reflection, I’ve often been accused of exemplifying this classification… That’s not to say I don’t take anything I do seriously…
    On the contrary, playing games for me is a serious matter, to be taken most earnestly. It’s just that my honest answer to those who’ve asked…. “When will you stop sailing?” is…. When I tire of playing this game and feel then need to choose another.
    I suspect there may be others who follow suit. Or at least would like to ;)
  • The Enthusiast ( just can’t get enough ). Lives and breathes yachting. Can be rather dull at social functions due to his one topic conversational repertoire. Has not realised that not everybody, including other sailors, can stand talking about sail trim for hour upon hour. Found mostly around boat yards where his audience has difficulty escaping.
  • The Copycat ( he’s out there because you are ). In it’s mild form, I’m guessing it’s a case of being inspired by those who have gone before, be it Moitessier, Slocum, or Knox… Absolutely nothing wrong with that…
    But then there is the chronic copycat. He’s not there because of any particular plan or interest. He’s there because he couldn’t stand being left out of the “been there and done that” or the “been there bought that” crowd…
    A much healthier ( if somewhat antipodean ) response to adopt when faced with the sailing trophies of others is…Fine…And yet… “You can’t impress me because I’ve been to Bali too…”
    Note: Remind me to sail to Bali one day….

Complicating matters is that many sailors belong to more than one of the abovementioned categories. Meeting a patriot nudist playboy or a frugal copycat enthusiast is not as difficult as one might first imagine. It all just goes to show you that the cruising community can at times, be an odd one.

Feel free to comment on any other classifications I may have inadvertently missed…

 

 

A sailors life in images….

The life of a solitary sailor... It's all on film....

The life of a solitary sailor… It’s all on film….

I finally have an answer for those of you who’ve often asked…

What’s it like to leave it all behind and sail off into the sunset in your own boat?

Google has unwittingly provided it… Click on this link to see what I mean…

If the link doesn’t work just type “ifno.info/blog” (including the inverted commas) into google and then press images

Time is short…

The real reason we travel to the Caribbean

The real reason we travel to the Caribbean?

Not that I dare assume the slightest responsibility for this, but readers may be under the false impression that sailing a yacht through the Caribbean island chain, is just an elaborate way of going on an extended pub crawl, or an excuse for gate crashing parties in exotic locations… Heaven knows where they came up with such a notion…

It’s abundantly clear (my standard line for the folks back home) that the real reason I travel here is because:

  • I’m bettering myself through cultural immersion and by savoring the phenomenal natural diversity of the islands (almost wrote islanders), and that it’s an enlightening and deeply spiritual experience.

For some reason (I can’t imagine why…), few seem to credit these claims…

Free tastings at the Saint James distillery in Martinique

Free tastings at the Saint James distillery in Martinique

Why just the other day I was doing exhaustive research into the plight of spirits at the Saint James distillery.

How much more spiritual can you get?

You see… Being a man of quasi-constant leisure (I’ve been downgraded), isn’t just about admiring the pretty girls after all….

One can but admire such fine plumage!

One can but admire such fine plumage!

Though I’m occasionally willing to apportion a smallish fraction (say 80%) of my attention to this field in appreciation of the finer arts…

But sadly, I will have to postpone further studies. Time is running short, and I must see to the noble cause of furthering the yachting infrastructure in French Guiana (I’ll take a modest bow to your polite applause here)…

Can't go anywhere without stocking up on white goods!

Can’t go anywhere without stocking up on white goods!

So while my preparations, including provisioning are fortunately in no way as burdensome as some, it will not be long before I must weigh anchor once more and return Eileen of Avoca to the Amazon basin.

Now if only the weather would improve…

The bit I don’t understand…

Martinique, where men are men... or...

Martinique, where men are men?

For those of you who wonder why there are so many photos of women on my blog, I present Exhibit A (photo above)… Need you any additional explanation as to why I don’t often photograph the men?

A mini Miss beauty pageant?

A mini Miss beauty pageant winner blows the crowd a kiss…

The very young,

95 years young.

95 years young.

and the very old on the other hand, make excellent photo models. Both were found celebrating on the streets of Fort de France in the true spirit of carnival. A rarity however, as the predominant group (at least for this year), was the teenager. I have no idea where the mid twenties to mid thirties set were hiding… That remains a disappointing unsolved mystery!

Not that I have anything against teenagers out having a good time. It’s just that the generation gap occasionally feels like a chasm. For example:

It's not carnival.... It's Lolita ville here in Fort de France

Carnival teens.

Is it just me or do the girls look like they’re auditioning for the next production of Lolita?

Carnival mini thug

Give me your wallet or else…

And the boys…. What’s with the I want to look like a thug theme?

Hot pants with a use by date of this evening???

Hot pants with a use by date of this evening???

Frankly, I don’t get it…

Oh well, guess I’ll just get back to something I do understand…. Leopard hunting…

 

Bunnies, Mouseketeers and… and…

The bunnies are everywhere!

The bunnies are everywhere!

I’m back for another day of bunny watch… For some reason rabbit ears are all the rage at this years carnival.

Pa bunny and baby bunny out for a stroll.

Pa bunny and baby bunny out for a stroll.

But it does look better on some…. than on others….

The mouseketeers are alive and well.

The mouseketeers are alive and well.

If it’s not rabbit ears its mouse ears….

It will all be on facebook tomorrow.

It will all be on facebook tomorrow.

I photographed the lot..

Not that I wasn’t ready to participate in the festivities! I had quickly acquired my carnival essentials kit.

Carnival kit... Because sometimes less is more....

Carnival kit… Because sometimes less is more….

Energy drink, check…. Red nose, check…. odd voice whistle (makes you sound like you’ve been breathing helium), check….

Tailing carnival leopards... Dangerous work...

Tailing carnival leopards… Dangerous work…

I wasn’t just going to be a spectator at this party… Especially when I found myself on the tail of a young leopard or two…

So, did the great red nosed hunter catch his prey?

Now that I've caught myself a leopard, what next?

Now that I’ve caught myself a leopard, what next?

With the right camouflage it was even too easy….