Tag Archives: Madeira

What happened to all those regular updates?

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Approaching Lagos... Canaries exit...stage left

I’d like to say that I’ve been alone, cut off from the world valiantly battling heavy seas for weeks at a time, tempering my physique whilst exercising my mental mettle, but the reality is that I’ve been tremendously busy making unplanned social detours at every opportunity.

Following a night of pontoon festivities, [where alcohol refreshments were enthusiastically consumed by sailors young (that’s me) and old (i.e. everyone else… OK, not you either Marta…) and gathered for one last bash under the twinkle of party lights and thrum of music emanating from the little blue boat], the majority of southerly migrating yachts (three out of five) left Cascais on the 2nd of November bound for the Canary Islands, (Madeira had become a no-go zone due to forecast heavy seas).

After a teary goodbye by the throngs of well wishers gathered to witness Eileen of Avoca’s departure [(that would be the crew of Angel of Rio and Apodis), and enthusiastic (if somewhat imaginary) jostling by hoards of fans crowding the shoreline (now I’m harboring illusions of fame and grandeur but do bear with me, the phenomenon is generally transient…), eager for just one last glimpse of number 9 putting to sea], I spent a thoroughly undignified and sleepless night dodging all manner of royal annoyances including cruise liners from the Duchess and Empress, to the Princess and you-name-it-ness, all apparently intent on running me down.

The high priestess and priest of 'yea almighty' Lupin

Despite managing a respectable 100 nautical miles in just 24 hours under just tri-sail and stay-sail, I quickly satisfied my quota for ‘hours logged in a confused swell’ (yes, I’m ready to accept the label of wimp!), and took a left hand turn round Cape Vincent, setting course for Lagos to satisfy a newly devised theorem on mollifying seasickness with ice cold larger ashore. After promising initial trials at the marina cafe, I managed to significantly expand on my basic proof, concluding that the miracle cure for nausea at sea is to be found in hot vindaloo at an Indian restaurant, courtesy of old 3-day friends, (oh… and only after a foundation of several refreshing pints).

The official version of my story reads: faulty wiring with Eileen’s tri-light forced me to put to shore on safety grounds, but upon exhaustive testing and intense scrutinizing (I flicked the switch back and forth a couple of times), the mysterious intermittent problem resolved itself. There, you see! Having a technical background specializing in troubleshooting does pay off!

Determined to make the most of this unscheduled stopover, I went hunting for the crew of Riviera Magic (wintering afloat), to pay homage to the resident feline deity “Lupin”. Those of you who have been diligently reading all my updates (ah… dear mum), will recall that I met the high priest and priestess (Brad & Diane), serving yea almighty Lupin, on Riviera Magic in May while sheltering at La Coruna. I am pleased to report that Lupin is well and may consider an extended public tour after sufficient rest this winter.

Heading for the Canaries... Take 2

At dawn I made my second attempt to reach the Canary Islands… For the moment, lets just say I didn’t quite make it.

Nazare to Cascais via Peniche

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Party aboard SY Apodis

It was a “for one night only” stop at each of the ports south of Bayona and on to Cascais, where I planned to take stock, buy provisions and make any last minute repairs.

Captain Hadley

In Nazare, I met (not for the first time) with the crew of a German registered yacht called SY Apodis, (for their blog see www.sy-apodis.de), the Swedish ARC rally vessel “Wind” (with six young male crew members), the previously mentioned ARC rally vessel “Summer Song” and an English / Brazilian couple aboard “Angel of Rio”, in an American built catamaran on route to Thailand.

The renown (among many cruisers) Captain Michael Hadley (pictured here) was on hand to keep us all in check and ensure we berthed where we should (hint hint Angel of Rio…), and all but the Swedes gathered for drinks aboard Apodis where despite quantum elevations in our blood alcohol levels, the mosquitoes had a field day feasting on us. Actually, the mosquitoes had a field day with everyone but me, which makes me wonder if I should have put on a cleaner shirt before wandering off to socialize. 🙂

A lazy afternoon

Upon checking out the following morning (which is just a case of returning the shower key), I paid most of the 8.03 Euro owing before setting off for Peniche.

Apparently I must pay the 3 cents outstanding upon my next visit, either that, or I am to supply one pretty Brazilian girl as collateral. Hmmm, there is only one currently in port, and I don’t think Nigel is willing to let her go, and it’s quite a lot to expect I’ll bring one all the way from Brazil for a measly 3 cents! 😉

Sleepy dogs in sleepy Peniche

The marina at Peniche is still officially closed but there was no problem picking up a buoy in the well sheltered harbour. Having traveled just 24 miles there was plenty of time to play afternoon tourist and it is during my perambulations with Nigel and Martha from “Angel of Rio” (www.nigebyrne.com) that I rediscovered the ‘Fellini movie’ atmosphere of this wonderful fishing village.

La Dolce Vita in Peniche Portugal

The final 44 NM leg to Cascais was uneventful, but what a sense of relief to have arrived at my Atalntic crossing jump-off point without too many mishaps!

The one pressing concern, dealing with a broken rope clutch handle, was generously resolved by the previous owner of Louisa (Yarmouth23 No.8). Responding to my message on the Yarmouth23 owners user group on Yahoo, Steve volunteered to check with his local chandler for a replacement and having found the required parts, promptly purchased and sent them via courier to Cascais.

I am extremely grateful Steve, as all my attempts to source Spinlock gear in Portugal met with dismal failure. Thanks to your help Eileen of Avoca will be more than ready for the next leg to Madeira.

More amazing sailors!

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Viana do Castelo

I am blog writing while sailing! A real novelty for me because reading or writing below deck is usually a recipe for instant nausea. But today the sea is calm and I am motoring toward Aveiro at a brisk 5kts. So if you were ever wondering why my posts are delayed by several days, it is either because I need to be on steady ground before I find the incentive to write, or I’m having difficulty finding Internet access (which happens rather frequently).

It has been an interesting couple of days as I travel south from Bayona via Viana do Castelo and on to Leixoes (near Porto). I’ve seen some beautiful boats and some rather scruffy but functional ones all migrating south with Madeira or the Canaries in their sights.

Just to highlight this, what follows are a couple of photos taken on route:

Swiss tall ship in Bayona

I didn’t expect to see the Swiss out and about sailing in this fine vessel.  Pictured here anchored off Bayona, it made quite an impressive sight.

The not so glorious Gloria

Not so fine but certainly impressive, is Gloria, an English registered ferro-concrete yacht (you don’t see many of them these days), that perhaps has seen better days. Never mind, it hasn’t stopped the crew from patching her up and setting sail from the UK for warmer climes. Having paid just 1500 pounds to buy her, it goes to show that even on a boat budget considerably smaller than mine it’s possible to go cruising. I wish them well.

Cavok 5 and her Japanese crew

Even the Japanese have made an appearance in this years southerly yacht migration! I am pleased to say that I have made friends with the crew of Cavok 5, sailing their French built yacht to the Mediterranean, but returning each winter to Japan.. We had a short but enjoyable stay as marina neighbors in Viana do Castelo, conversing over espresso coffee and a glass of fine port. I do hope to see them again in the future… who knows, perhaps it will be in Japan!

The control center of Voya

I finally had a chance to look inside Rowland’s yacht ‘Voya’. Very nice! Though I think he has enough instruments to control the next space shuttle mission. Makes me think of the David Bowie song with the lyrics “Ground control to Major Tom….”

Saying goodbye 🙁

In Viana do Castelo I said goodbye to my “3-week friends”, and set sail alone for Leixoes. Frederic and Vivien on Avel Vat will stay near Porto for a week and the crew of Voya and Cavok 5 have decided to take a short break.

I hope to make the most of a patch of fair weather to reach Lisbon within a week.

Attempted repair of jammer handle

While I’m making good progress since leaving Spain, I have had the occasional hiccup. I now need to source a replacement part for a rope clutch that broke on route, and this is proving difficult. I’ve put the word out with the Yarmouth23 user group and perhaps they will be able to assist me with tracking down and sending me a replacement.

Fingers crossed!